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Showing posts with label blending. Show all posts
Showing posts with label blending. Show all posts

Avant Garde…Gold Flake Makeup

This look was so much fun to create, Avant Garde is such a broad aspect of Makeup, it allows artists to really express themselves, get creative, and ultimately have fun!

I had seen something similar to this look on Illamasqua, and used this and the look done by Karla Powell as my inspiration! I bought the flakes a month or two ago and have been waiting for the perfect opportunity to be able to use them, and I was finally able to do so on Saturday….

So first of all what equipment will you need?

Face -
Art Deco Foundation - 1 or 2 shades darker than the natural skin tone
MAC Skin Mineralize powder - Soft and Gentle
MAC Lustre Drops
Ben NYE - Gold Shadow (Azlec Gold)
Gold Flakes - Ebay
Glitter Fix Gel - Stargazers (Amazon)
Kryolan Camouflage Palette (D15)

Eyes -
Emite Eyeshadow - DAMS (from my Glossybox)
NYX Mascara
Lashes - any that you love use! Eldora are my FAVES at the moment!
ELF Gel Liner
NYX Pencil Liner

Lips -
Gold Ben NYE Shadow
MAC Gloss

Tools -
Blending Brushes/Contouring Brushes - see my brush blog for essential brushes!
Face Brush
Silicon Applicator from Crown Brushes

So firstly I started with the face, applying Art Deco foundation 1 or 2 shades darker, using my short stipple brush from Crown Brushes, I built the foundation up to get maximum coverage. I then contoured the face using D15 in the kryolan camouflage palette, using my ELF Concealer Brush, be careful with application of this it is very dark so you won't need much. We opt for a grey coloured medium, as people often think using a brown shade of contouring medium works best, but actually grey is your best bet, as we are essentially trying to create a shadow!

Once the face was finished, I then took my ELF concealer brush and applied the Gold Ben NYE shadow to the areas in which I wanted the flakes, or some highlight/interest. I highlighted the edge of the face and all of the areas in which you would usually choose to highlight with a normal highlighter.

I built up the Gold shadow, to add some depth to the look, and also providing a good solid base colour for the flakes to sit on.

I applied the Gold Shadow to the jaw line, the cheek bones, above and below the eyebrow, along the bridge of the nose, on the hairline, and down onto the neck, highlighting the clavicles. I applied until I was satisfied with the colour of the product on the skin.

I then took my Glitter Fix gel from Stargazers, and applied it to the skin in areas that I wanted the Gold flakes to stick.

I also tied the hair back, applying wet look gel to the front, running it through the hair with a comb, to give it a sleek look, and I then applied the gold flakes into the hair line, running back into the hair!

The tool that made this look so simple to do, was the silicon applicator brush, by Crown Brushes, this truly was a god send!!! The applicator, picked up the flakes allowing you to transport them to the face without them dropping all over the floor, and allowed you to place on to the primed area with ease.








I stuck the flakes where I had firstly put the Gold Shadow, focusing on the framing of the face!
I took the flakes down onto the neck, at which point I decided to change my medium, I decided to use glitter, to cover the neck, using rather big glitter particles to cover the neck, again using the Glitter Fix gel.








Once I had applied all of the Gold Flakes I then moved onto the eyes..The look was sultry, dark, smokey, jet black eyes!

I have used a few black shadows in my time, but this has to be the most, deep, black I have come across, it is AMAZING. Its the one I received in my Glossybox this month and it is incredible. The pigment is so strong, it applies beautifully, blends amazingly, and has minimal fall. Although I did apply some translucent powder underneath the eyes to allow any drop to be removed with ease!


I applied a shadow base, NYX White Milk Stick, to the lid, for the shadow to adhere to, and taking a round contoured brush, again from Crown, I applied the black shadow, winging it out slightly, and continually blending until I achieved that dark black sultry, smokey eye. I also applied the Ben NYE Gold Shadow to the inside corner, to give it some interest, and contrast.








Another great brush for this look, is the Mini Contour (Crown Brushes) this really enabled me to get close to the lash line, applying the black eyeshadow precisely, as it is so small, but then being able to blend it out, with it being fluffy! This brush is a gem, and one all MUA's and makeup lovers need in their kits!

Apply your mascara, and Lashes and your eyes are almost done. I decided that I wanted to apply some gold flakes to the inner corners of the eyes this was simple to do, just apply the Glitter fix gel to the amount of the lid in which you want to cover and then apply the flakes using your silicon applicator!








I kept going over my Gold Highlight as I LOVED the colour, it was amazing, and it just got more beautiful the more I applied…I literally could have spent hours on this look, faffing, and perfecting!

I then finished the look with the lips, I again used the Ben NYE shadow and applied it to the lips, and applied gloss over the top in the centre of the lips, to maximise them!!






This looks was one of my favourites done so far, Avant Garde is supposed to inspire and create imagination paths within individuals, and thats what it has done for me, viewing the likes of Illlamasqua and Karla Powells work…I hope this inspires some of my readers, as I have already had several ask where I got the gold flakes from, so I hope to see a few of you re-creating and experimenting!!!
I would love to see some of them when your done…send them my way :)








Anyway, Enjoy, be Creative, Break Boundaries, and don't hold back!!

Lots of Love

Alex

xXx



Brushes... Tips, Tricks and Techniques


Brushes…Wow where to start, there are sooo many things I have to say about brushes, regards material, brand, use, cleaning, purpose etc., but this blog will focus solely on the types available and some techniques, for blogs to do with the other aspects visit my blog page!!!

First of all let me say that Brushes are key to your makeup application…for those of you out there that use your fingers, shame on you!! (My mother is one of them) Your fingers are not for applying makeup! Lip balms…yes great use your fingers, patting glitter/pigments etc. yes fine…but when applying face, and eye makeups please invest in some brushes! Hopefully this blog will enlighten you as to why its beneficial, and I assure you that if you read other blogs from my website, I will show you that you don’t have to spend silly amounts of money for good quality brushes!






So what types of brushes are available? You have different brushes for different aspects of the face. We have face brushes, which split down into complexion brushes, contouring brushes, foundation brushes, concealer brushes, and blusher brushes. Each of the mentioned brushes prior then have different varieties within their category, for example foundation brushes, you can have flat, or duo fibre brushes. It’s all about preference and what you are used to. In this blog I am going to talk to you about the brushes I prefer to use, why I prefer them to some of the other options, and the techniques to use when applying your makeup with them.



So lets start with the face…Face brushes that are must haves are;
A foundation brush, now I prefer the duo fibre brushes over the flat brushes, purely and simply because I feel you get a more flawless, seamless application with the stipple brushes, the flat brushes can leave brush strokes on your face, which isn’t desirable. This brush can be used with all types of foundation, cream, liquid, powder. To avoid build up on the tip of the brush, apply the foundation to your face, or to your hand, or even onto a silver palette first and then blend the foundation over the desired area in circular motions, buffing it onto the skin. This really will leave your face with a flawless finish; build up to the coverage you desire and your good to go…





TIP – Get yourself a short duo fibre brush aswell for a more controlled buffing action

Concealer isn’t something I use a lot myself as my skin usually doesn’t need much covering, but if I’m doing a shoot, or for those of you with slight blemishes, a concealer brush will be perfect for covering those imperfections. A firm, but fluffy brush should be used, now I know that sounds controversial, but finding the right brush for the job is so important, so for the concealer brush you want something firm that will allow you control when applying concealer, but you also require it to be fluffy so that it will blend your product, again using circular motions to buff in the concealer, the concealer should also be of similar shade to your foundation to ensure the application isn’t obvious and looks as natural as possible.




TIP – Apply concealer under and over your foundation for that extra coverage



A powder/complexion brush again needs to be firm to ensure even application but also fluffy to ensure blending. Large powder brushes are easy to come by, and usually not all that expensive, you want one that doesn’t hold too much product in one place on the brush, you want a brush that picks up the product evenly allowing even application over the face, ensure that your powder brush is dome shaped, and again move in circular motions, which acts as a buffing technique.




TIP – Clean after every use to ensure that it doesn’t get clogged up with powder/cream-based products

For contouring, you can use an angled brush, which will also team up as a blusher brush, just ensure that you clean your brushes in between uses. The angle of the contouring/blushes brush, allows you to apply product, following the natural shape of the cheekbone, in an upwards-diagonal motion towards the centre of the forehead. This brush will be workable, meaning that the brush hairs will be quite firm but again soft in texture, allowing you to move the powder, or cream based product around, you want it to be comfortable on your face, and if the brush is too hard you will just drag the powder/cream around the area, instead of buffing it into the region in which you want the colour, which will look all together more natural.




TIP – Use a dome shaped brush on the apple of your cheeks for a flush of colour


We then have eye brushes…now this facial aspect has sooo many different brushes available its quite insane! I am going to talk about the few you would need to create any look your wanting to J
A base is essential to make your shadows applied last for a long period of time, use a flat, firm brush to apply a creamy base that you intend for your shadow product to adhere to.




Once you have applied your base, you will need a fluffier flat brush to apply your base shadow, this brush can be different sizes depending on the shape and size of your lid. They are often round in shape to blend and move with the natural contours of your eye. The fluffy brush will allow a seamless application of a light base shadow over your creamy base applied prior.





TIP – Pat on the shadow to ensure it adheres to the creamy base you applied earlier

Now for eye makeup application I think you need 5 brushes…
A small shader, for applying the shadow, the small shader should be quite firm allowing definitive application of the shadow, the technique to use with this brush is a placing motion, you place and pat the eyeshadow onto the lid rather than buffing it on.




TIP – Keep building up the shadow until you achieve the desired colour/depth of shadow


You then need a blending brush, which will enable you to blend the harsh edges of the shadow, and if your applying more than one colour, then it will blend the edges of the colours together, meaning a seamless application. One thing to remember is not to over blend, although blending is key to flawless makeup application, over blending on the eye makeup can make it look silly, and like one big mass of colour. You just want to blend the edges, so that it is all smooth, seamless and sultry! Beautiful!!





TIP – Get yourself more than one blending brush, you can never have too many, especially if more than one colour is in use!

A crease brush is also essential, with this dome shaped, shorted bristled brush you can apply a darker shadow into the natural crease of your eye, the socket. This will emphasise the shape of your eye, acting as a contour. The brush needs to be fluffy, but the compact bristle arrangement will mean you have control over the product you are applying! This brush can also double up as a general blending brush!




TIP – Use this brush to blend, it allows precision blending

A smudger is also an essential brush to have when you are doing a Smokey eye, or any look in which you don’t want any harsh, definite edges. This brush needs to have short brush hairs, and be quite firm, this will allow you to move any product that you wish to smudge, for example under the eye, if you line the eye with liner, take your smudger and buff over the liner, this will smoke it up! Giving you an instant sultry look!



TIP – This brush can also be used to apply highlighter to the inner corner of your eye!

Finally for the eyes an eyeliner brush is key!! There are different variety’s again, Angled, flat, fine tipped! I have tried using each of them, and for me the fine tip is the key to that definitive, neat, precise eyeliner application! Starting in the middle of the eye, ensuring you have enough product on the brush, and sweep your brush out to the point in which you want your eyeliner to finish, ensuring that it tapers off, rather than just stopping! Then get your client/yourself to look down into the opposite corner and fill in the inside corner, matching it up to your starting point in the middle! Patience and a steady hand is key when applying the gel liner! Take your time, have cotton buds handy to eradicate any mistake, and keep practising…do not give up! J




TIP – Make a dot on the outside of your eye for you to follow, when drawing your flick, this dot will be the point at which your liner will stop, this will give you your symmetry!


Other brushes that I believe to be essentials are…a lip brush these brushes have a rounded tip with a slight point, they allow a precise lip line to be created, which can then be filled in using the wider flatter base part of the brush.




TIP – Use a lip liner first to prevent any feathering of the lipstick you apply, and then use the brush!

A brow spoolie is also essential; I am obsessed with eyebrows being groomed. I never used to be bothered about my brows, but now I cannot stand having them un-groomed! It offends me, as it is so easy to do…Get yourself a brow spoolie, one end will have a spoolie on it which you can also use for your lashes, and the other end will have a firm angled, short haired brush on it! This is the end you use to apply your brow medium, whether that is a cream, a gel or a powder!
Firstly you will take your spoolie end and comb your eyebrows upwards creating maximum lift, neatening up the edges, ready for colour application. Then take your brow brush, and starting at the inside corner, draw a line, following the natural line of the underside of the brow till you come to the outer point, and then do the same on the top, filling in the gaps in the middle of the brow, ensuring they look as natural as possible J




TIP – Make sure that once you have finished your brows, apply a brow gel or wax to keep them in your desired position

Now the coolest brush I have come across recently is one for you glitter, sequin, and pigment lovers! It’s a silicon applicator that ensure precise application of your loose medium, onto either lips, eyes or the face in general, it is made from a soft plastic that the products stick to, allowing you control and achieve precise application! This is a new brush to my kit and I can’t wait to use it, and review it for you guys! But anybody that loves playing around with makeup I would definitely advise purchasing!



TIP – If your using glitter/pigments etc. keep sticky tape handy to remove any fall that drops down onto the face!


Finally do look after your brushes, if you are using them regularly do clean them often, a baby shampoo is great, keeping the bristles clean, soft and hydrated, means that they remain supple for a long time if you keep looking after them J

My final point to make is…Brushes shouldn’t be deemed to have one use. I have so many brushes within my kit that I use for different jobs…for example I use my concealer brush to buff foundation, or blend shadows, I also use blending shadow brushes to conceal, brushes are versatile items, and you should use them for whatever you see fit! As long as you get the desired look and finish then this is all that matters!

For brand specifics, please visit my blog for more details!
Hope this has been useful!
Thanks for reading!

Your feedback and comments are welcome!

Lots of Love
Alexandra Louise
xXx



Name: Alex Singleton MUA
Twitter Name: @AlexLouiseMUA
Website & Blog: www.alexandralouisemua.co.uk

 Facebook Page: MakeUp Artistry by Alexandra Louise